No food in Beijing?I specialized in writing a book with more than 100,000 words hard just once!What do you think of that

2022-08-24 0 By

Over the years, I have heard the ubiquitous saying that There is no food in Beijing.Some friends sent me specially, asking me to express my opinion, every time I basically answer with “ha ha”, too lazy to refute, does not agree with.Surface wind light cloud light, I actually secretly dark poke poke to write a book, with more than 100 thousand words hard just once, to say to say a hanchang dripping li!However, I am not an expert in food. This book is not a simple answer that There is food in Beijing or what kind of food there is. What I want to say is that there is something wrong with the statement “Beijing has no food”.Food this stuff is the most opinion, only love does not love to eat, not good, favorite is the best, perhaps I enjoy it, and others such as drinking arsenic, human taste differences, than the three differences, so, million can not be forced.In addition, to learn to respect other people’s preferences, food this matter is actually need some tolerance.These Beijing foods I love are from snack habits. They are not only food, but also carry the memory of growing up, record the changes of the city and contain the inheritance of culture. The feeling of food is extremely individual and regional, so it is too arbitrary to say that “Beijing has no food”.The book is actually quite peaceful, just talking about my food experience and knowledge in Beijing. I love Beijing, because of these food stories, more fireworks.As a Beijing aborigine who likes to write about food, I often encounter such “soul questioning” : What is Beijing food?Because there are so many things I want to say, but they can’t be summed up into one precise and simple answer, like a lump in my throat. It reminds me of Mr. Lao She’s famous saying that he misses Peiping: “This love is something I want to say but can’t say.”Later, I finally found the authoritative statement about Beijing cuisine. I really deserve to be Mr. Wang Shixiang, the master of literary and entertainment, the last “veteran of delicious food” in old Beijing, and the real master of Beijing cuisine.He defined it as follows: Beijing cuisine is a fusion of local cuisine, local snacks, Halal cuisine, palace cuisine and official cuisine, integrating the cooking skills of han, Mongolian, Manchu, Hui and other nationalities, incorporating shandong cuisine and inheriting the essence of palace cuisine of Ming and Qing Dynasties to form its own special flavor.CAI Cui has formed a variety of eclectic, elegant style, unique style, its own system of “Beijing cuisine”.What a summary!I love Beijing cuisine is so bold, 49 cities around, the central axis linger, a deep feeling condensed between the lines, finally have this book about food.Nowadays, many people know that the restaurant industry has a rating standard for foreign restaurants, and it’s a big deal to get a few stars on “Meqilin”. In the past, some restaurants in Beijing that have been rated as stars have sparked heated discussions, with both praise and criticism.In fact, old Beijingers never choose a restaurant by its star, but by its name — every dish and delicacy of a time-honored restaurant is loaded with history and culture, and it is also the most authoritative “folk restaurant list”.Yuan and Ming dynasties, Beijing’s restaurants and restaurants have been booming, to the Qing Dynasty is very prosperous, especially after the middle of the Qing Dynasty, Beijing’s restaurants are more developed, dining up to hundreds of old names, and there are conventions in the appellation.The so-called “hall” is the largest, which can be used for both banquet and singing. The restaurant not only has tables, chairs, but also a stage and an empty space. It is often a large quadrangle courtyard with several entrances, which is very imposing.The most famous one is the Hoi Hyeon Hall at shisha Beach. Hoi Hyeon Hall, together with Ju-hyeon Hall, Fu-shou Hall, Tianfu Hall, Hui-feng Hall, Fu-qing Hall, Tonghe Hall and Qinghe Hall are called “eight halls”.Those smaller than the hall are called “ju”. They differ greatly from the hall in that they only hold banquets, but do not hold meetings. The “eight major ju” are fuxing Ju, Wanxing Ju, Tongxing Ju, Dongxing Ju, Wanfu Ju, Guanghe Ju, Tonghe Ju, and Shaguan Ju.There are eight famous restaurants of Shandong cuisine in Beijing, including Dongxing, Taifeng, Zhimei, Hongxing, Zhengyang, Xinfeng, Anfu and Chunhua.In addition, there are “Eight Spring”, “Eight Square”, halal “four Dashun” and so on.Old Beijing these big restaurants mostly concentrated around the central axis, this line is the capital’s most prosperous and rich land, naturally will be thriving business.In particular, qianmen area, a cluster of shops, guests, but also become the origin of a variety of food and gathering place.Restaurant guests are mostly dignitaries, and ordinary people have their own ways, the streets are cheaper “two meat shop” is the best choice, the meat is pork and mutton in most cases, a master be the chef, two runners lad, moved a few tables and chairs can be opened again, good and inexpensive, not bad in taste.There are almost every street and bustling hutong in Beijing can find the “big wine tank”, more interesting, it specializes in providing wine and dishes, in the cold winter, drink a cup of wine, eat a mouthful of dishes, barbecue charcoal fire, and listen to wine friends talk, is quite comfortable.And those so-called on the table of various kinds of folk snacks, whether it is the bridge market stalls, or lotus market tea shed, take-out “box shop”, in the alley “fried goods house”, and even the street vendors……Along with the cries of all kinds of civilian food, constitute the city’s most spectacular picture of life.The catering industry in Beijing also experienced prosperity and decline. After the July 7th Incident, after years of war and chaos, on the eve of liberation, only two famous “Eight Houses” remained: Tongheju and Casserole Ju.After the liberation of the public-private partnership, many of the names changed, some gradually disappeared.It wasn’t until the 1980s, when Beijing revived traditional time-honored brands, that century-old restaurants and old food were reborn.During this period, they disappeared for several decades, but in the hearts of Beijing gourmanders, they never seem to go far, because they have been living in the fine prose of the great writers of the Republic of China.Don’t know how many people and I, the enlightenment of Beijing traditional food came from liang shiqiu’s beautiful house to talk to eat, later found zhang henshui, Lao she, ji, Lin yutang, even lu xun are large swathes of Tang Lusun is write food to perfection, it is by these words, food become the culture, history, the city left a deep imprint.I love liang Siqiu’s description of the food scene in Peiping in four seasons: “We eat spring cakes at the beginning of spring, then yellow croaker fish comes on the market, followed by bakers.By this time the backyard pepper tree sprouted, just pinched down to cook fish.After the fish season, wisteria flowers bloom and eat rattan cakes, roses bloom and eat rose cakes;And big flower cake of jujube paste.In summer, followed by water chestnut, lotus, lotus root, pea cake, donkey roll, love nest, together.Table on the common crystal elbow, street singing to sell lamb, this time tender cucumber, new garlic should be from time to time.Autumn wind together, smell the first sugar fried chestnut smell, and then is the gun roast mutton, there are seven points eight groups of large crabs.Before and after the Spring Festival, the abundance of food is needless to mention.”Life in Peiping, Liang concludes, is “food over and over again.”This is the most specific interpretation of “time is good”!Literary masters of the Republic of China drew an attractive map of Beijing cuisine for us. Looking carefully, it turned out that almost all of them were around the central axis. Lao She talked about zhengyang Lou’s “tender mutton” and “hairy crab feet”, and missed the doujuer of Huguo Temple.Liang Shiqiu praised the “thin but not broken, cooked but not burnt lotus chicken slices” of Dongxing Lou, back to Beijing before leaving the luggage rushed to zhimei Lou to eat fried tribelly;Although ji xianlin was not from Beijing, he missed Beijing food most when he was abroad. When he returned to Beijing, he would go to Dongan Market to eat instant-boiled mutton, saying “the world is most beautiful”.Zhang Hate water love “wu eat” pine wood barbecue, or a cold drink lover, wrote “Plum soup often recall xinyuan Zhai” verse;Lu Xun never forgot the “three do not touch” of living together, but also like to buy rice fragrant village snacks;Tang Lusun praised shaguoju’s “Shaguoju White meat” from disgust to surprise, “unique flavor, unprecedented”…Reading these vivid and fragrant words, how can not be tempted, simply moved to tears streaming down from the corners of the mouth.Thanks to these words, some of the delicacies that have been lost for decades are being described by gourmets as having regained their old taste.In recent years, the re-opening of each time-honored brand has become a great event for “gourmands” in Beijing to visit one after another to appreciate it, with excitement, comfort, loss and regret.Delicious food is not only the taste, but also the taste left by the years.03 food taste is the taste of homesickness in recent years, met a lot of delicious under co-religionists, will eat will do gourmet, thering is no lack of among them is master chef, gradually appreciate traditional food in Beijing that “food gastronomes, enjoys incomparable fine craftsmen spirit and unique charm, so I inherit the spirit of literary giant’s version of the republic of China, started a Beijing shopping trip to eat.What’s the most famous specialty of Beijing cuisine?In my mind, roast duck and instant-boiled meat are the top two, equally equal, not tired of eating enough, the taste of the enjoyment of simple and rough, straight hit the taste buds.The roast duck must be accompanied by the classic lotus leaf pancake, sliced scallion and sweet bean sauce. The rich and wonderful taste of the duck meat and fruit wood and the crispy skin is really unforgettable and irresistible.Shabu meat must be cooked with charcoal fire in a copper pot of clear soup. Mutton and cucumber slices are the best. They are served with sesame sauce, sugared garlic and freshly baked sesame cakes.Today, there are 800, if not 1,000, roast duck restaurants and shabu restaurants in Beijing, making it a national delicacy.Beijing those street snacks, than the major famous shop’s signature dishes, let a person miss the degree is actually not bad at all.A few years ago, the “Beijing Sky Red” fried cake of Hufang Bridge was about to close down. In winter, hundreds of people queued up for several hours in the cold wind. Many people were puzzled.Indeed, beijingers would say: “What you eat is not only fried cake, but feelings!”In the memory of every Beijinger, there is such a snack bar, such as ciqikou’s bean juice, Hongji’s steamed stuffed bun in Niujie, Jinfang’s cream fried cake, Hei Kiln factory’s sugar oil cake, Xu Ji’s baked cake in Anping Xiang…When it does not feel how, can not eat it is so miss.Decades, Beijing has changed with each passing day, used to live in the old hutongs disappear, old neighbor us, send a small play with their respective, once went to elementary school many also changed its name or merged, everything seems to be crushed by the wheel of time, and these from the snack food used in, the heart is warm.The taste of food is actually the taste of nostalgia, a baked cake, a fried cake hidden in our childhood memories, the feelings of youth, parents at the door to ask nagging, neighbors get along with the warmth……For hundreds of years, Beijing cuisine and the ancient city have developed, merged, innovated and changed together. Food is a real history of social life.This bowl of human fireworks, decades of happy life, only food can not live up to!My new book “Four Seasons of Delicious Food” is available for sale in Beijing, if you are interested, please take a look